Is it safe to remove the bottom chords of a series of garage roof trusses?To aq nvessiJj h2p tt 1ngp Oo7 Bmenpjs itwnLmp;2sps
See attached picture. Looks like an 8x10 cut-out. He wants to lift cars up so he can walk under them.
Is this safe? Doesn't removing the joists affect structural integrity?

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2With no horizontal members tying across that gap it looks to me as though there would be a risk of the peak collapsing downwards as the walls bow outwards... – brhans 23 hours ago
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Where are the bearing walls? It looks like the remaining ceiling joists could stabilize the roof structure, provided the bearing walls are far enough from the opening. – Lee Sam 23 hours ago
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1Will you be expecting snow? – JACK 21 hours ago
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@Jack - or wind. (Note as bad, but still not good). – Martin Bonner 7 hours ago
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1He just created this future situation for himself: diy.stackexchange.com/q/94143/42053 – MonkeyZeus 5 hours ago
3 Answers
Absolutely not safe.
Those trusses were engineered with a heavy dependency on the bottom chords, which are in tension. Removal has left them extremely vulnerable to collapse due to spreading, especially under snow loads, but also under just the load of the roof itself. The roof system is basically a hinge now.
To get a good mental image, picture yourself standing on an ice rink and sliding your feet outward. How far do you get before your groin starts to scream at you?
Best case scenario, that ridge slowly sags over the opening and looks ridiculous. It will push walls around with it, cracking drywall and binding windows. Worst case, full collapse. Death. Destruction. Worst of all, humiliation.
Repair will require new lumber installed with a suitably fastening system, such as construction adhesive and through-bolts. It may be necessary to winch the walls back into alignment first if sagging has already begun.
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I'm not sure I would describe that mental image as "good"! – Martin Bonner 7 hours ago
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There are a number of ways the damage could be repaired without lumber - but repaired it must be. – Martin Bonner 7 hours ago
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1Yes, but that probably goes beyond the DIY capabilities of anyone who would do this to their roof system. Also, any replacement for lumber must be laterally stabilized as those bottom chords were by the "rat run". – isherwood 7 hours ago
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+1 for humiliation – Dennis Williamson 29 mins ago
With no bracing above, you might want to check the out side walls - they are probably already spreading. Once they start moving the stabilization and repair can cost many thousands if the roof stays in place, tens of thousands if it comes down.
There are ways to mitigate the damage done, but it needs to be done now before the walls spread, the rafters move and the roof leaks if not collapses. Yes I have seen bonehead DIY hacks like this.
Steel plates in the outside walls with cables to pull the walls back together, repair the damage to the rafters, new bracing with some engineered cables added.
I would suggest getting the bracing and cable system installed now or it will cost much more than the lift and the loss of use if the root comes down.
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1One thought, is that it may be possible to replace the joists with much beefier joists higher up. That would allow some of the additional headroom the owner wants, without compromising the structural integrity of the building. – Martin Bonner 6 hours ago
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It may, but we have no way of knowing what the loads on those truss members are, and 2x4 top chords probably aren't adequate. You'd need to sister heavier boards on the complete A-frame. – isherwood 6 hours ago
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That’s the bracing I am talking about but depending on how high the car protrudes into the space will dictate if engineered cable supports are needed. (If the car sticks more than a foot or possibly 2 it will probably require an engineers stamp for whatever is done. Wish I could say I haven’t seen this kind of hack before. – Ed Beal 6 hours ago
The triangle is an extremely stable form of architecture precisely because it has three sides. You remove one side, and you have one of the least stable forms of architecture on account that two members connected at a point can be affected by torque, which is by definition a force multiplier. If you want to play around with it to get a sense, try gluing two Popsicle sticks and three Popsicle sticks like the design in the picture above.
Any force directed downward will because of the elasticity of the wood create force outwards. If the members were steel, there would be substantially less deformation resulting in less outward force, but lumber is relatively flexible.
Now, it should be noted that some of the horizontal members are still in place, as many as half, and those runs will make it unlikely the structure will collapse under normal conditions, however, heavy winds or heavy snowfall, as mentioned in other comments, likely to create outward stresses in the middle section of the structure. The exact details of what will happen will largely be a matter of detail. To some extent, existing construction code generally overengineers a solution to ensure that minor failure will not result in human harm.
It is possible to create both the space needed to elevate the car, and have a structurally sound garage given the picture. For instance, additional chords can be installed low enough to recreate trusses, but high enough to accommodate a raised vehicle. There are a number of truss styles that do not use a horizontal bottom chord, the scissor truss for instance. And using steel as a construction material can help to redirect the tensions through materials more capable of absorbing the load. Lastly, the walls themselves can be modified. It was typical of cathedrals to buttress on the exterior, the wall to handle high-arching ceilings, for instance.
Construction is often a question of engineering as much as it is design, and if safety is a concern, such as it might be in this photo, consulting a structural engineer would be the right thing to do. Structural design is their expertise, which would be my recommendation.
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For situations where one would need a large hole, would there be any approved ways of using horizontally-mounted beams or trusses to convey horizontal forces from the middle of the hole to the ends, or would every such design need to be independently professionally engineered? Given the roof pitch and amount of ceiling on either side of the hole, it would look like it should be easy to fit horizontal trusses that would be strong enough to handle such loading, – supercat 3 hours ago
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My intuition (by no means a calculation), would say that in this picture, several strategies would strengthen the roof. Running some sistered members across the cut joists would obviously create rectangles that would reinforce the wall from deforming. Purlins along the rafters would also work, or tying together those inside chords from the front to back parallel to the wall would also help. It's really a question of how sure one wants to be. Horizontal members higher up are a must. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timber_roof_truss#/media/… – J D 3 hours ago
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@supercat If you want a roof with a hole, you design a roof with a hole. You don't first design a roof without a hole, then cut a hole in it, and then try to fix up the resulting mess. – alephzero 3 hours ago
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@supercat This is the sort of timber roof design still standing after more than 600 years after it was built: greenoakcarpentry.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Presentations/… – alephzero 3 hours ago
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I think in the design above, my personal choice would be to add to the sawed faces of the joists two sistered 2x6s, and then lay another 2x6 over the length to gusset those joints. I'd go with a purloin on the rafters tied to horizontal chords half way down, and then if I wanted to really strengthen the walls, lay a pratt truss horizontally on top of the joists near the top plates. – J D 2 hours ago